Although interior squeaks or rattles seem normal as your vehicle ages and accumulates miles, other noises, can be an indicator of other issues. Being alert to noises and knowing what they mean is important.

Few things to consider and what they can mean:

• A growling noise that rise and fall with engine RPM can point to a low power steering fluid level. The pump in the unit may need lubrication. Its as easy as topping off your power steering fluid. Consider inspecting the system for leaks, as repairs may be needed.
• Ticking noise from under the hood: Although a slight ticking noise is normal, a louder ticking can indicate lifter or valvetrain noise. Valvetrain noise by itself isn’t a problem, as an engine can run another 70,000 miles with a noisy lifter, but its best to check the oil level nonetheless.

• A ratcheting sound from front end: Failing CV joints on a front-wheel-drive vehicle will make a rhythmic clicking or ratcheting noise. This can be easily identified. One way to detect this noise is to drive in a circle, with the wheel racked all the way to one side. Determine if the noise gets louder as you turn in one direction compared to the opposite direction.
• A noticeable clunk sound when you put the transmission in gear: Failing U-joints will clunk when you put the vehicle in gear, or when you step on or let off of the throttle. This occurs in RWD vehicles. It’s the sound of slop being taken up in the joint as you apply the throttle. On a FWD vehicle, this sort of clunk can mean worn motor mounts, although it will come from the front end. Often in FWD vehicles, worn motor mounts will also mean a vibration that gets stronger when the engine is under load.
• A squeaky front end: If you hear squeaks from the front end as you go over bumps, it can point to failing ball joints. Worn ball joints generally indicate poor road manners, a lot of slop and play in the steering, with having to constantly adjust to stay in a straight line. You can diagnose ball joints by safely jacking the front end up so that the wheels hang and the suspension has no load on it. Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock, as well as 3 and 9 o’clock, working it back and forth. Analyze how much excessive play is in the wheel, while paying attention to any popping or creaking noise.
• A groaning noise: If the fluid level is low, excessively dirty and worn out, a  groaning noise can come from the transmission. This needs immediate attention. Learn how to check your transmission fluid properly.
• A clunk sound as you apply the brakes: A caliper is misaligned or loose, or some other piece of brake hardware is loose. This needs immediate attention as is can be dangerous. Do not drive your vehicle until it’s diagnosed and repaired.
• A squealing or grinding when you apply the brakes: A squeal generally is indicative of a wearing down of brake pads. Its best to have it checked. A metallic screech or grinding, on the other hand, can mean that the brake pad’s wear indicator is dragging on the brake rotor or that the pads are worn to the point of metal-to-metal contact. This needs immediate attention as it is very dangerous. You should replace your pads and rotors right away.

• A click every few seconds when the AC is running: When refrigerant is too low, the compressor’s clutch will cycle the compressor on and off. Low refrigerant causes low AC performance. Blowing cold air only when the vehicle is in motion or musty smells from vents are a clear indication. Recharging your system is easy easy fix.
• A whining or howling sound from the rear: A differential that’s low on oil or is starting to wear, can make a whine or howl that changes in pitch as you speed.
• A squeal or chirp from under the hood: This usually points to a belt that’s loose or an accessory pulley that’s slightly skewed. Serpentine belts are equipped with a tensioner that delays this problem. Old belts should be inspected with a flashlight and if you see any cracks or frays, it’s time to replace.
• An irregular rattle from under the vehicle while driving: It might be a loose exhaust component or hanger. You might also notice a vibration from underneath while idling in gear with your foot on the brake.
• A thump sound from the front end when driving over bumps: If you hear a thump when you hit a big pothole is indicative of either a worn shock absorber, worn front-end bushings or other problems. Push down on the fender repeatedly and see if the noise can be replicated. The vehicle should bounce no more than twice. More than two bounces can mean either worn shocks or worn steering components like the drag link, Pitman arm or idler arm. Lift the hood, turn the key to unlock the steering wheel, get a helper to work the wheel back and forth (with the engine turned off) and listen for any unusual noises. Also observe the steering linkage to see how much play or slop is in the components.
• A heavy clunking or banging noise from the engine: If you hear something that sounds like someone banging a garbage can lid with a hammer, it’s not a good sign. It can mean worn main bearings or rod bearings, or extreme oil starvation due to low oil level or low oil pressure from the pump. Pull over and check your oil level right away.
• A humming or groaning that gets louder and changes pitch with speed: A tough one to identify, but it could be an indicator of either bad wheel bearings or worn axle bearings. Abnormal tire wear can also cause these symptoms. Learn more about failing wheel bearings to differentiate between the two.
• A hissing from under the hood: More often than not, a hissing noise means a vacuum leak, either from a hose or vacuum line or possibly at the head gasket. Although, a leaky head gasket might be an indication of other problems as well. It is best to get it checked out.

Andress Auto Parts is your one stop shop for fixing any problem under the hood of your vehicle. Speak with one of our trusted experts today.

Diagnosing and Repairing a Vacuum Leak

The environment in the engine compartment is rough, affected by motion and heat. Over time a leak can happen in one of the vacuum lines. You will first want to isolate the faulty line which can be identified by a hissing sound. 

Vacuum leaks can cause extra air to flow into the system throwing off fuel to air balance that’s critical to fuel function. This will turn on the check engine light.

IS A VACUUM LEAK THE PROBLEM?

If something has caused your check engine light to register, it’s best not to presume it’s the sensor that’s at fault. For instance, a vacuum leak at the EGR valve can be enough to prevent the solenoid from opening and closing the valve, causing a trouble code to be stored. A vacuum leak at the MAP sensor might disrupt engine timing strategy and fuel delivery, causing fuel economy and drivability problems. Same goes for emissions systems like the EVAP canister and others. Your braking system could also be affected by a vacuum leak, since most power brake boosters rely on engine vacuum.

Do not presume the worst or go after the most complex and expensive problem unless you’ve first ruled out a vacuum leak. Symptoms like poor acceleration, rough idle, stalling, stumbling, misfires, poor fuel economy, and hard starting might be caused by nothing more than a vacuum leak. 

FINDING THE VACUUM LEAK

• Locate the vacuum schematic for your vehicle. In many cases, there will be a sticker under the hood that will show vacuum line routing, or your service manual.
• If your trouble code is related to fuel metering, the engine control computer may already have compensated to adjust for the change in air/fuel ratio. In that case, disconnect the throttle position sensor (located at the throttle body) to force the engine into “open loop” mode. That way you can hear it rough-idle and it should be easier to track down the vacuum leak in question.
• Being mindful of hot surfaces and moving parts before you start an inspection of each vacuum line, including its T’s and junctions. Vacuum lines are fairly thin and soft, some not much bigger than a drinking straw. Look for splits, tears, flared-out ends, and splits at the ends. An inspection mirror and flashlight helps to see difficult areas.
• It will be harder to listen for the hiss of a vacuum leak over the noise of an idling engine, but a mechanic’s stethoscope (or even a length of hose) can make it easier to amplify and isolate a noise.
• Feel for softened spots, hardened spots or deformed spots along the length of each line. If you’re lucky, your fingertips might even be able to feel suction from a leak.
• If you find a vacuum line that’s split at the end, you may be able to snip off the end and reconnect. For many hoses, this is not an option, though, as the length from the factory is specific to the application. 

Andress Auto Parts is your one stop shop for fixing your vacuum leak. Speak with one of our experts today.

A slow battery drain when everything is off is called parasitic power loss. This happens when anything like a glovebox light, an amplifier, any electrical component is pulling power from the battery when it should not. Since the alternator isn’t generating vehicle electricity, the problem component pulls from the battery, slowly draining it overnight until your vehicle won’t start. If you find this problem happening to your vehicle, come see one of your local Andress specialists to help diagnose the cause and help with the right part.

Slow power drains are inconvenient and annoying, and result in a shorter battery life.

How do you diagnose your battery issue? After your battery is charged, run a test to see if the battery needs to be replaced. Batteries need to be replaced every few years as part of typical maintenance. Your local Andress Auto Parts has the lowest priced batteries in town if you need to replace your current one. Your battery could be near the end of its service life and it should be recycled and replaced with a new one. If the battery test shows that it is still good, then it’s time to start looking at a parasitic power draw. While you’re under the hood or at your local Andress, test the alternator. A failed diode in the alternator creates a closed circuit that drains your battery even when the engine is off. No matter what the problem is, we have the right part for you.

Car battery life can be extended for years. If your battery isn’t at least 2-3 years old, and it seems to have failed, then it might be that it’s not actually dead. Car batteries can lose their charge occasionally, if you don’t drive for a long time, since shorter drives can lead to earlier corrosion and crystalline deposits on the negative terminal of your battery. Cold weather can also be a factor, since most car batteries are less capable of maintaining their charge in these conditions. Make sure you check your battery for damage and corrosion around the terminals, and measure the voltage to see just how much it dropped. Jump starting or using a car battery charger can be the best option. We always recommend keeping a good battery charger around to help with battery drain issues. Come see your local Andress Auto Parts for quality batteries and chargers.

Proper maintenance is the key to extending your cars battery life. If your battery drains faster than normal, it can be because of a faulty alternator or other car components that are not functioning properly. Also, it is possible that corrosion and sulfur deposits can severely impair your battery’s functional capacity. Corrosion generally appears as a fluffy green or white deposit around the positive terminal. This corrosion creates resistance to the flow of electricity and will prevent the battery from accepting or delivering the full charge. Check the car battery frequently for damage and corrosion to avoid being stranded on the road or have to replace your battery prematurely. Light corrosion can easily be cleaned, but if it corrodes too much then the terminal needs to be replaced. Come see us for any battery accessories.

If you hear brake noises other than a squeal, it could mean your brake pads are worn out and need to be replaced. If your brake pedal feels different from normal or if you’ve noticed any change in the way your vehicle brakes, have the brake system inspected at once. Come see your local Andress Auto Parts for your brake part needs. Here are the most common signs that your brakes need to be replaced.

Your Car Is Pulling When Brakes Applied

As you approach a bend in the road or stop sign, hit the brake pedal and your car sort of pulls to one side. This motion indicates that your brakes pads are exerting uneven pressure on the rotor.

Little or No Brake Pedal Resistance

When you press the brake pedal, it’s supposed to offer some resistance. When it doesn’t, it’s highly probable you have a brake system fluid leak. It could be around the master cylinder, or a brake line somewhere under your car could have a small pin-hole. Because your car’s braking system depends on a steady flow of brake fluid, you should address this immediately.

Scratching / Grinding / Scraping Sound

This unmistakable, awful sounds like metal scraping against metal, because that is what’s actually happening! When your brake pads wear to a certain point, the “wear bar” is exposed. This slender piece of metal tells you that your brake pad level is getting low – low enough to change!

Excessive Vibration

We call it the wobble, whatever you call it, this is when your car vibrates upon braking. Similar to the pulling problem we mentioned above, this could be the pads. But it might be your caliper, too.

Locking / Unresponsive Brake Power (Even When Pumping Brakes)

We saved the most serious issue for last. In this case, check to see if your ABS warning light is on. When your anti-lock braking system fails, a critical safety feature isn’t working, and you should pull off the road as soon as you can.

No matter what brake issue you may be experiencing, come see your trusted Andress Auto Parts representative for assistance today.