Although interior squeaks or rattles seem normal as your vehicle ages and accumulates miles, other noises, can be an indicator of other issues. Being alert to noises and knowing what they mean is important.
Few things to consider and what they can mean:
- A growling noise that rise and fall with engine RPM can point to a low power steering fluid level. The pump in the unit may need lubrication. Its as easy as topping off your power steering fluid. Consider inspecting the system for leaks, as repairs may be needed.
- Ticking noise from under the hood: Although a slight ticking noise is normal, a louder ticking can indicate lifter or valvetrain noise. Valvetrain noise by itself isn’t a problem, as an engine can run another 70,000 miles with a noisy lifter, but its best to check the oil level nonetheless.
- A ratcheting sound from front end: Failing CV joints on a front-wheel-drive vehicle will make a rhythmic clicking or ratcheting noise. This can be easily identified. One way to detect this noise is to drive in a circle, with the wheel racked all the way to one side. Determine if the noise gets louder as you turn in one direction compared to the opposite direction.
- A noticeable clunk sound when you put the transmission in gear: Failing U-joints will clunk when you put the vehicle in gear, or when you step on or let off of the throttle. This occurs in RWD vehicles. It’s the sound of slop being taken up in the joint as you apply the throttle. On a FWD vehicle, this sort of clunk can mean worn motor mounts, although it will come from the front end. Often in FWD vehicles, worn motor mounts will also mean a vibration that gets stronger when the engine is under load.
- A squeaky front end: If you hear squeaks from the front end as you go over bumps, it can point to failing ball joints. Worn ball joints generally indicate poor road manners, a lot of slop and play in the steering, with having to constantly adjust to stay in a straight line. You can diagnose ball joints by safely jacking the front end up so that the wheels hang and the suspension has no load on it. Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock, as well as 3 and 9 o’clock, working it back and forth. Analyze how much excessive play is in the wheel, while paying attention to any popping or creaking noise.
- A groaning noise: If the fluid level is low, excessively dirty and worn out, a groaning noise can come from the transmission. This needs immediate attention. Learn how to check your transmission fluid properly.
- A clunk sound as you apply the brakes: A caliper is misaligned or loose, or some other piece of brake hardware is loose. This needs immediate attention as is can be dangerous. Do not drive your vehicle until it’s diagnosed and repaired.
- A squealing or grinding when you apply the brakes: A squeal generally is indicative of a wearing down of brake pads. Its best to have it checked. A metallic screech or grinding, on the other hand, can mean that the brake pad’s wear indicator is dragging on the brake rotor or that the pads are worn to the point of metal-to-metal contact. This needs immediate attention as it is very dangerous. You should replace your pads and rotors right away.
- A click every few seconds when the AC is running: When refrigerant is too low, the compressor’s clutch will cycle the compressor on and off. Low refrigerant causes low AC performance. Blowing cold air only when the vehicle is in motion or musty smells from vents are a clear indication. Recharging your system is easy easy fix.
- A whining or howling sound from the rear: A differential that’s low on oil or is starting to wear, can make a whine or howl that changes in pitch as you speed.
- A squeal or chirp from under the hood: This usually points to a belt that’s loose or an accessory pulley that’s slightly skewed. Serpentine belts are equipped with a tensioner that delays this problem. Old belts should be inspected with a flashlight and if you see any cracks or frays, it’s time to replace.
- An irregular rattle from under the vehicle while driving: It might be a loose exhaust component or hanger. You might also notice a vibration from underneath while idling in gear with your foot on the brake.
- A thump sound from the front end when driving over bumps: If you hear a thump when you hit a big pothole is indicative of either a worn shock absorber, worn front-end bushings or other problems. Push down on the fender repeatedly and see if the noise can be replicated. The vehicle should bounce no more than twice. More than two bounces can mean either worn shocks or worn steering components like the drag link, Pitman arm or idler arm. Lift the hood, turn the key to unlock the steering wheel, get a helper to work the wheel back and forth (with the engine turned off) and listen for any unusual noises. Also observe the steering linkage to see how much play or slop is in the components.
- A heavy clunking or banging noise from the engine: If you hear something that sounds like someone banging a garbage can lid with a hammer, it’s not a good sign. It can mean worn main bearings or rod bearings, or extreme oil starvation due to low oil level or low oil pressure from the pump. Pull over and check your oil level right away.
- A humming or groaning that gets louder and changes pitch with speed: A tough one to identify, but it could be an indicator of either bad wheel bearings or worn axle bearings. Abnormal tire wear can also cause these symptoms. Learn more about failing wheel bearings to differentiate between the two.
- A hissing from under the hood: More often than not, a hissing noise means a vacuum leak, either from a hose or vacuum line or possibly at the head gasket. Although, a leaky head gasket might be an indication of other problems as well. It is best to get it checked out.
Andress Auto Parts is your one stop shop for fixing any problem under the hood of your vehicle. Speak with one of our trusted experts today.